Burnt Sugar and Black Salt

Yes, I have been doing things other than making ice cream. I've even been cooking things other than ice cream bases. But I'm here with another ice cream recipe, and, let me tell you, it has me wanting to kiss my ice cream maker and the person who gave it to me. As of now, the ice cream maker is 50% off at amazon.com. The gift-giver, however, is not for sale.

The first time I tasted burnt caramel ice cream was at the dinner table of Will and Leah in Massachusetts. Since then, I've scanned freezer cases all over the east coast for ice cream labels promising the flavor that haunted my taste buds. This search turned up a few decent caramel ice creams and a memorable dulche de leche, but nothing that even approached burnt caramel.

Now, those of you whose tongues have never tasted this best-of-all ice cream flavor may be saying to yourselves, "Burnt? Isn't burnt caramel ruined caramel? Don't caramel recipes always urge you to be super-vigilant so as not to let the sugar burn?" True...all true. In the spirit of truth, burnt caramel ice cream might more aptly be named slightly scorched caramel ice cream. Scorched caramel ice cream tastes like butterscotch with a curious bitter kick at the finish that lures you to have another taste. Truly burnt caramel ice cream would taste like a terrible, terrible mistake.

The margin between the former and the latter is, unfortunately, slim. But if you truly burn your caramel, you'll know it before you sacrifice any cream or eggs. At that point, all you have to do is toss it and try again, your only losses being a cup of sugar and a few tablespoons of water. I knew I was gambling with my batch when it turned in a flash from amber to brown, but I didn't want to forgo any of that scorched flavor. Five more seconds and I would have had to start over. But don't let this discourage you. I'd burn my way through a whole bag of sugar for this ice cream.

A recipe for candied bacon appeared in the same Bon Appetit issue that featured this ice cream. Burnt caramel ice cream with a side of salty-sugary pork was hard to pass up. Had I not recently pawned off batches of bacon peanut brittle (Patrick wouldn't eat it), I would have tried it. But I will...dinner guests be forewarned. I couldn't, however, eschew the temptation to add a bit more salt than the recipe specified...Kosher salt in the custard base and Black lava sea salt on top.

I've been looking for an application for this salt since I spied a bag of it in Pittsburgh Trader Joe's. With a bit of googling, I learned that this salt, harvested in Hawaii, contains black lava rock and charcoal. The crystals are large, slightly damp, and quite salty. As a finishing salt, it is often sprinkled on fish, both cooked and raw. It will definitely be making another appearance the next time I venture into tuna tartare or scallop ceviche.

Burnt Caramel Ice Cream with Hawaiian Black Lava Salt
Adapted from Bon Appetit, February 2007.
Makes 5 cups.

This ice cream is certainly rich enough to stand on its own, but it would make a lovely partner with apple pie, dark chocolate torte, or candied bacon. I've come across burnt caramel paired with lemon-flavored tarts and souffles, but have yet to try the two together.


1 cup sugar, divided
3 tablespoons water
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
5 large egg yolks
a few pinches of Hawaiian black lava sea salt

1. Stir 3/4 cup sugar and 3 tablespoons water in medium saucepan over medium heat until sugar melts.

2. Increase heat to medium-high and boil without stirring until mixture turns dark amber, occasionally swirling pan and brushing down sides with wet pastry brush, anywhere from 4-7 minutes. Try to avoid entering the bitterly burnt sugar stage. This stuff does burn quickly. But, don't be tempted to take the sugar off the heat too soon, or you won't get the burnt flavor that is the glory of this dish. Immediately add milk (watch out: mixture will bubble up).

3. Add cream, salt, and vanilla. Bring mixture to boil, stirring to dissolve any caramel bits. Let cool 10 minutes.

4. While you're waiting, whisk yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in medium bowl. Gradually whisk in hot milk mixture. Return mixture to same saucepan. Stir over medium heat until slightly thickened, coats the back of a wooden spoon, or registers at 180 degrees F on a candy thermometer, about 6 minutes (do not boil).

5. Strain custard into medium bowl. I wouldn't skip this step. These eggy custard bases inevitably curdle in patches. The straining takes only a few seconds, and you'll be guaranteed a super-smooth ice cream for your effort. Cover with plastic wrap pressed down onto surface of custard, and chill until cold, at least 4 hours. Custard can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.

6. Process custard in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to container; cover and freeze.

7. Sprinkle with a bit of sea salt before serving.