Saturday, August 12, 2006

Pittsburgh Flora

A Saturday morning stroll through the produce stands on the Strip turned up an edible treasure. Against the backdrop of downtown highrises and red brick buildings once bustling with the steel trade, there rested on a farmer's market table: squash blossoms. They were just sitting there among the heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn, and red bell peppers as if they were just another summer vegetable. Squash blossoms have an air of the exotic about them, perhaps because most of us are not in the habit of eating flowers on a regular basis. But the simplicity of those little green and melon colored pods, their petal tips artfully twisted shut, makes nature herself seem practiced in perfection.

Needless to say, the asking price of $1.50 for twenty or so pretty little blossoms won me over to Pittsburgh farmers' markets.

By the time I had my blossoms in hand, I knew they were destined to be stuffed with cheese, battered, and fried. An hour or so of contemplation failed to produce a decision about the precise nature of that cheese filling, so I made two different types. Half I stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy, and the other with ricotta, garlic, and basil. Both, I think, are relatively authentic Italian recipes. Patrick favored the former and I the latter.

Unwilling to have these squash blossoms relegated to a supporting role, we made them the stars of an al fresco summer dinner made possible by our new patio furniture. In between bites of crisp squash blossoms filled with hot cheese, we nibbled some olives and roasted red peppers, and washed it all down with cold white wine. The night air was fresh. The grass was green. Pittsburgh was almost like heaven.

A Pair of Squash Blossoms
serves 4

20 squash blossoms
1 cup flour
1 cup beer
1 teaspoon coarse salt

3/4 cup ricotta cheese
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
salt and fresh ground pepper

10 mozzarella bocconcini
5 anchovy filets, rinsed, patted dry and cut in half

enough canola or light olive oil to fill frying pan to one inch depth

1. Stir together ricotta, garlic, and basil. Season with salt and pepper. Fill 10 squash blossoms with mixture. Twist the tops of squash blossoms together to seal.
2. Fill remaining 10 squash blossoms with 1 or 1/2 mozzarella ball (depending on size) and 1/2 anchovy filet. Twist to seal. Cover and refrigerate stuffed squash blossoms until ready to fry.
3. Make batter. Combine flour, beer, and salt with whisk. Add extra flour or beer to achieve a thick, gravy-like consistency.
4. Heat olive oil in skillet over medium high heat until it reaches about 350 degrees. You can use a thermometer to measure temperature; or you can judge by dropping a bread crumb into the hot liquid (when it sizzles and quickly browns, your oil is ready).
5. Dip squash blossoms in batter, allow excess batter to drip off, and gently submerge them into hot oil. Fry until golden brown, turning once (about 2 minutes). Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Season with salt. Enjoy them while they're hot.

4 comments:

zp said...

Welcome to the 'Burgh.

Lindy, the best cook in the city as far as I can tell, loves zuke blossoms and keeps a blog called Toast. Rebecca, who keeps a blog called Eat, attempts to eat out in Pittsburgh without disaster. Sometimes this works. Maybe you've already found them? And I write about food now and then too.

I'm feeling too lazy (what else is new?) to link in the comment, but find your way to my blog and links to Eat and Toast are down under the general blog links on the right.

Sarah said...

Thanks for the welcome, zp. I have had a chance to check out Eat and Toast. And when I can get around to it, I'll check out your blog. I don't, however, hate the New Yorker, but maybe you'll convince me that there's no need for me to drag myself through all of the issues that have piled up in my living room over the past few months.

What is your take on Pittsburgh cuisine?

zp said...

i don't really hate the new yorker either. it's just something i say when i throw it across the room for one reason or another. it's a kind of ironic overstatment.

as for pittsburgh cuisine, if you want to know where i eat out, i have a list of "where we eat, pgh" in my pittsburgh sidebar. there's also an intro/post to that explains the logic - we're cheap.

i also have a few links that i generally find useful, interesting and/or sympathetic under "pgh restaurant reviews and food blogs" also in the pittsburgh sidebar.

then i have a category (again,in the sidebar, but under categories) called food - that's my posts on cooking and provisioning and a few of my own local restaurant reviews.

but to sum up: i don't hate the iggle, i don't love whole foods, the best thing that's happened to me culinarily since i moved here (and maybe in my whole life) is the kretschmann farm box, and i believe that tessaros is the only actual restaurant in pittsburgh as it is pleasant to sit in, the service is prompt and doesn't ask where i went to high school, the food is excellent and i don't have to byob.

as for byob and the state liquor thing, i actually think the state provides a good deal on imported wines. i just always forget to take them to the restaurant myself.

whew. chew on that, as they say.

oh yeah, and i lived in durham, nc for 4 years and moved here the year before last. i'm a grad student writing a diss.

Sarah said...

zp, I'll have to check out Tessarro's. It's not easy to find "the perfect burger" and, from what I hear, this place might have a winner.

I don't hate Giant Eagle, either. But yesterday, suddenly struck by a *need* to eat miso soup for dinner, I naively hopped over to the local Eagle, which, as it happens, does not stock seaweed of any sort nor miso in any color. I had to go to Whole Foods. And I like it there. Way too expensive, but I get sort of giddy looking at their cheeses and mushrooms.

Can't complain about the BYOB option, which does not exist in NC. But I think the wines in Pittsburgh are overpriced. And I would much rather buy my wine while doing my food shopping than in a liquor store. Bah humbug.

Were you in school in Durham?

Back to chewing on my own dissertation. ~S.